Sharon Will Fine Art Blog

Adventures in Paint & Pastel

Comparing Water Soluble Oils

Posted on 1/3/2015 12:52:41 PM
By Sharon Will
18 Comments

Antique Treasures 10" x 8" plein air oil
Antique Treasures 10" x 8" plein air oil

My early painting training began in painting the figure with traditional oils for several years.   But after taking a pastel class, I was hooked and worked exclusively in pastel for the next 25 years.   Reaching an artistic plateau with pastel, (the plateau was not with the versatile pastel medium, but with myself) I decided to return to my first love of oil.   Even thought I loved the smell of turpentine, knew I wanted to avoid the potential harmful fumes this time around, which are there even with the odorless turpentines.  So began my journey with water soluble oils.  I first considered Grumbacher Max.  Someone at the time had mentioned they didn't care for the texture and felt they were a student grade.  So honestly I never tried them.  Sorry Grumbacher!  That said, this is not a scientific comparison of all the available w/s oils on the market, rather my personal experience and journey with them.  

 

I then purchased Winsor Newton's Artisan water mixable oils.  I used them for a while, enjoying their texture.  They are reasonably priced with Hues rather than pure Cadmiums, but they do have pure Cerulean and Cobalts.   I found the tinting strength to be week in many of the colors.  It seemed I had to add allot of pigment to change a value, temperature or intensity of a color.   That alone was my deciding factor to try another brand.   But I do enjoy the W/N water mixable painting medium even now as well as their varnishes.  I like the synthetic mediums without the Linseed oil or varnishes without Damar, which can lead to yellowing over time.  Though I would not recommend their "fast drying medium."  While using it on a warm summer day doing plein air, it virtually was drying on the spot, but going through a very sticky stage making it impossible to paint with. 

 

So on to Duo by Holbein.  Having more of a selection with Cadmiums/Cobalts, as well as the Hues for cost considerations.  I am happy with their texture and tinting strength, (although the Cad Yellow Deep Hue seems a bit weak.)   I should say here that my palette is not one where I've tried every color they make.  I routinely use a limited double primary palette:  a warm and cool of each primary with Titanium White.  (Like a Cadmium Red, Alizarin Crimson, Lemmon Yellow, Cadmium Yellow, Cobalt Blue and Ultramarine.) I do add some convenient colors such as Yellow Ochre, Burnt Sienna, Viridian, and an occasional Orange, Prussian Blue,  Cad. Yellow Light or Rose Violet.

The Duo Titanium White does seem to have a stiffer texture than the other colors.  So I add a couple drops of painting medium to the pile of white.  It helps the texture as well as assuring a bit of gloss is added to each color as its mixed, avoiding a mat finish, which I'm not a fan of anyway.

 

Martin F. Weber Co. was nice enough to send me a couple tubes of their water mixable oils to try.   I did like the texture, consistency and tinting strength of the two I tried.  They are the best priced oils of all of them out there, with all Hues and no Cadmiums.   Weber has the least selection and I was surprised to find they don't make a Titanium White.   Perhaps its coming?  I know in the time I've been using Holbein they have come out with many more colors.

 

I've heard about Royal Talens Cobra,  but just recently had a chance to try it.  Now I've only tried a Yellow Ochre so far, but if this color is any indication of the whole line, I have to say it is the softest texture of all the brands.  No medium needed to create a creamy consistency with them.  Their line offers pure Cadmiums/Cobalts but no Hues.   All of the above brands of water soluble paints are available online through Dick Blick.   The only other existing w/s that I'm aware of is by Daniel Smith,  but like Grumbacher, I have not tried them.   

 

I am sold on the water soluble oils.  If there is any drawback, I find you can't get as fluid of an under painting wash as I did with traditional oils and turpentine.  If you add too much water the pigment isn't disbursed evenly, but adding a bit of water soluble oil medium to it helps.  When working with w/s oils, the same principle of "fat over lean" applies.  Drying time varies with each color, just like with traditional oils.  And clean up with soap and water on brushes, clothes and skin is a bonus!  I put a drop or two of liquid soap in my water. It helps clean brushes off in between colors and when painting outdoors in winter, slows down the freezing of water.  Most of the brands recommend if mixing traditional oils to the w/s , don't go more than 30% in order for the "water mixable" part to stay true.  Today I'm enjoying working in both water soluble oils and pastels.  If you have further experience with the water soluble oils, I'd love to hear from you!

 

P.S. For those working in traditional oils, here is a blog by Wonderstreet that has reviewed the main brands available on the market.  It includes health conscious brands like M. Graham and Gamblin, which use solvent-free mediums.


Comments

18 Responses to Comparing Water Soluble Oils

Brilliant and informative blog on water soluble oils, Sharon. I will be using them for future travels. Thank you for posting this!

Hi Sharon. I ran across your name in search for other Plein air painters in my area, I'm in Shelby. Then I realized after filling my membership I FO out for GLPS that this is where I saw your name before! Small world. I'm new to painting, only two years in so far, and I recently bought Holbein WMOs. My problem is, being new to oils in general and only trying WMOs, I cannot for the life of me find much information for an artist new to the medium. I've found when mixing WandN who medium into the paint that adding water can cause a strange reaction.
I also have found that cleaning brushes is difficult and found myself going to the OMS to clean the brushes in a jiffy. I wondered what I was doing wrong.
I started out in watercolor three years ago taking local college classes, and then last year really got into trying many different things. After a mixed media class using charcoal acrylic, pastel I fell in love with pastels and it has taken me by storm. I have just bought all of my equipment to begin Plein air painting and also have become a member of. the Michigan Plein Air Painters group.
If you could recommend any good basic teaching in oil painting with WMO I would appreciate some information. There really aren't any books on it yet that I can find.

Hi Sharon,
Looks like we're neighbors! I've e-mailed you at greater length directly with my phone #. Look forward to talking.
Sharon

I just wanted to update my experience with the Holbein water mixable oils.

I stated above, the problems that occurred for me but now after trying again wanted to clarify. My problem happened while using fast drug medium and an off brand student grade color that I did not have with my Holbein set. When I eliminated the off brand, and did not use fast drying medium, I found a huge difference. I'm very new to oils, of any kind, and have some experience with watercolor, and acrylics. Oil painting, has a feel of its own, with a bit of drag that I wasn't used to. And the wet on wet painting can be an issue for me especially when trying to get more detail.

I want to master oil painting and pastel, and look forward to learning under Sharon's tutelage!

Loved your information on watermixable oils. I have been teaching classes and using them for over 20 years in my studio. There is one other brand I think you might enjoy. Berlin Lukas brand. They are by far the most economical. Not even color is available but their reds are very good as are their blues. Another brand which you may have mentioned is Woil, I believe butyl Weber. These are great for students because of the plastic tube, however they dry out after in the larger tubes. The colors are fine but nothing like Cobra which is my personal favorite. Thanks for you information. I love to hear artist promoting this much safer alterntive.

Thanks Mary. I enjoy working with a safer alternative too. I'll have to check out the Berlin Lukas brand. For a creamy consistency though, nothing seems to compare to Cobra, so I'm looking forward to trying more of them. Happy painting!

I once used water soluble oils, but changed to walnut oil paints when an art teacher asked me to reconsider. I don't use turpentine or mineral spirits. I have written up my processes here: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1dXTrnE_ZoFnOiHGQSd-mNqw_61xoDPH_eZCxSii_kKU/edit?usp=sharing

Hi Sharon,
I came back to retread this blog. I have begun using the Holbein mediums including the fast drying. What I have found is to NEVER use any water with fast drying medium because there's some kind of reaction. I did find this a lot with the Windsor And Newton brand and left those mediums behind. But the Holbein media,s are much easier to work with. I have also found that reds cadmiums in particular take a much longer time to dry.

I'd like to know, have you fully switched over to a cobra and how are you liking them, having painted with more of the colors?
It seems that the teacher above likes them a lot, but they are very expensive.

My friend wanted me to try knife painting with him last summer. I did a couple that looked awful, but I was freaking over the amount of paint I was going through. He works in turp oils, and uses a much cheaper brand.

Sharon,
Yes, I found too that the fast drying mediums leave a really sticky consistency impossible to work with, especially on a warm day. I'm still using mostly Holbein right now. The beauty of the Holbein brand is the range they offer from the less expensive "hues" to the more expensive "cadmiums". And I too have found using a palette knife in painting gets some getting used to! I like to use it in combination with the brush for a variety of textures. Happy painting!

Thank you for the nice article. I enjoy using the water soluble oils. Just got the Duo (Holbein) and martin/Weber. The grumbacher seemed to be too thick. Same with Windsor newton. Trying to find good pigmented paints and improve my technique. I am copying this article to take to my instructor who is a purist when it comes to oil paints, she is open to learning with me! Thanks again. Happy painting! Lois Merrill

Lois,
Thanks for reading and commenting! Glad you're enjoying water-soluble oils too. Yes, I think there is a bit of a learning curve with them. Finding the right brand that works for each person, and getting used to them, especially if coming right from using traditional oils. I'm happy to see them gaining recognition as a safer alternative. Happy Painting!

Can you explain more about fat over lean?

"Fat" over "lean" refers to the application of the oil paint. First using turpentine washes with pigment for the initial lay in, dark colors are generally kept thin and applied first (lean), with thicker lighter values on top. Top layers are used with either straight pigment or pigment with an oil medium (fat).
The purpose of applying thicker paint over the thinner wash is for the integrity and longevity of the painting. The paint can crack in time if it's done "lean" over "fat".
Thanks for asking, hope that helps!

I'm going to give a go at some water mixables: Holbein Aqua Duo and Lukas Berlin.
I'll try to post my results. I know they are at extreme price points but I wanted to try the Lukas Berlin because of the economy and the fact some people on YouTube are giving them great marks, good reviews.
I have done a bit of research and that's how I found this thread - though it's a bit older now I thought I should follow up.
I do think from what research I've done that I will only use WM thinners and oils, no water, except to cleanup.
For cleaning up I'll try using Murphey's oil soap or hand dish soap. I ordered fast-dry medium but now after reading all of this I may only use if I can't get back soon enough for wet on wet... as for example blocking in before being away from my work for a couple days. Otherwise perhaps from what I'm reading here the paint is gooey-tacky for a day or two and unworkable.... perhaps even unwieldy the same day if in the sun???

I would like to hear some feed-back on the Daniel Smith line of water soluble oils. Anyone care to comment?

Hi Sharon, I stumbled upon your website while searching for water soluble conversions of color. Your post on W/S oils is from 2015 but a relevant beginning evaluation of these wonderful paints. My allergies had often kept me out of my Mom's studio. She was a portrait and landscape artist. I desperately wanted to move on from acrylics and learn from her. After my Mom's lung cancer, it made me more determined to learn how to use these paints which we eventually shared. Perhaps it would be helpful to update this thread for your students and followers. I've been on a similar journey with some different recommendations due to the passage of time. Traditional oils are a long standing gold standard for oils. But solvents and other chemicals can create significant health risks. Having these new oils which are just traditional oils plus an emulsifier allows for many of us to use oils. After speaking with other W/S oil artists and the many companies' chemists, the rejection of these paints by some are often based on lack of information and misinformation on how to use them. Most of these oils are indeed water cleanup only. The proprietary emulsifiers definitely make a difference. I have found that using water with many brands contributes to them becoming sticky and gummy. Winsor Newton, which is school grade, finally made a "thinner" as their solvent for their paints. I use Holbein Duo and Cobra, both artist oils, which are fully compatible and can successfully use water mixed well with their paints as a solvent replacement. Daniel Smith claims that their paints are artist grade as well and are water mixable as a solvent replacement as well. They only offer hues for their heavy metal paints but they claim they are fully pigmented. Those paints will be tested shortly. I have also tested mediums. Interestingly I have found that all brands' mediums including Duo and Cobra except for their linseed oil (which yellows), yielded sticky results. MGraham walnut oil and walnut oil with alkyd for faster drying and Gamblin Solvent free gel or fluid all are acceptable mediums which are odorless and are not sticky. I generally pick one medium or both walnut oils throughout a painting. Fat over lean of course applies. Water in early stages used for toning canvas, blocking in forms and underpainting are the lean steps and generally dry quicker via the evaporation of water. Later steps are straight from tube and the addition of the suggested mediums. Straight oil for glazing is last. I also looked through your website and was delighted by your beautiful, richly colored work. You embrace life in your paintings with vigor, vibrancy and happiness. They make me feel good. Thank you for that. Wish I lived closer to be able to enjoy learning from you. I would love to know what colors you use on your palette.

Bliss Torra, Thanks for your sharing your experience with water-soluble oils. I continue to love them as well! The only changes I've made to date is using more Cobra brand along with some Holbein. I enjoy Cobra's creamy texture and continue to appreciate the diminished health risks with the water-soluble oils. Interesting you stated you experience the paint texture becoming sticky when using all brands of mediums. I don't experience that with Winsor Newton Artisan Water-Mixable Painting Medium. But now you've got me interested in experimenting with the walnut oil, so will be trying that out! You mention wanting to know my palette colors, in the 3rd paragraph I list them. Best wishes, Sharon

I have found Grumbacher MAX paints to be excellent quality. However, I don't use water with water-soluble oils. I use Turpenoid Natural to clean brushes. It is supposed to be non-toxic. I also like Holbein's DUO range because it offers a real Cobalt Violet Light.


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